1994 Honda Del Sol B16, very weird No Start and Flooding in only one cylinder (#4 nearest dizzy)?

I'm very confused by this. So the car is in a "no crank no start" situation right now. However, I've been troubleshooting it for the last week, in accordance to Helm's Service Manual I have.

Engine: Sleeved, Blueprinted and Balanced, Fully built (top and bottom) B16a (built by a performance shop here in Colorado to be "bulletproof" at 600whp. Currently runs at 370whp as a daily driver of sorts, but I do Winter the car.

Symptoms before wintering last September: developed a hesitation/misfire in acceleration, and would occasionally backfire on starting. I checked timing then, and it showed it was good.

So wintered the car as is. (put the battery on a battery tender). Then a week ago, I went to wake it from it's winter sleep, I checked the spark plugs and wires. Wires seemed burnt up some, and plugs appeared to be fouled. (Black sooty coating) I assumed that caused too much resistance, and made the plug leads burn up. And was the cause of issue. I replaced both, getting NGK BKR7eix Iridium plugs (heat 7 because turbo, resistor type). Sorta expected the car to start but it didn't.

Syptoms as of a week ago:
Started off with the starter cranking 2 or 3 times, then "halting" with a click.
Would do this repeatably, even in "flood clear" (gas pedal to the floor during starting)
Then eventually just started to do the normal starter click
Now ONLY cylinder #4 (closest to distributor) is flooding bigtime with fuel.

See picture. That's fuel that was evacuated from the cylinder.

Added (1). What I have tested so far:
Plugs and Wires again. - Plugs for the three cylinders not flooding show sign of combustion. Plug for flooding cylinder is clean and wet. (makes sense)
Battery tested. - Showed excellent. (the battery is only like a year old, so again made sense)
Removed Starter, tested on a machine. - Starter showed good as well. (this one surprised me)
Checked all grounds.
Voltage tested most things.
Resistance tested in accordance to Helms Manual. (results in next edit)

Added (2). Results of Voltage testing:
Battery Voltage at Starter
12v at power wire to Distributor with key to "on" position
12v at injector clip power wire

Results of Reistance testing:
Fuel Injectors are all within .2 ohms of eachother and are at ~300ohms. (this is within spec according to injector brand website for saturated injectors)
Tested the resistance of the sensor plug off dizzy as per manual for the TDC, Crank Angle, CYL signals. All were correct.

All related fuses and relays appear good.

Added (3). So what do you think is causing the cylinder 4 flooding? I obviously assume this is the reason for no start. But the injectors test out to be good. Since the engine doesn't run, I can't do the Stethoscope method to listen to them activating.

Another note, is the battery leads get very hot very fast. (battery to chassis ground, and batter to starter power lead) I assume this is extreme resistance due to the engine not turning.

Added (4). Think today while I wait for thoughts/answers, I'm going to pull the injectors out and see if any leak at fuel prime. (especially the one for cylinder 4). Really feel like it has to be stuck open or something, cause that is a ridiculous amount of fuel, and only one cylinder is flooding. Which is weird to me.

Also I forgot to note, I can turn the crank manually without the use of extra leverage. Just normal strength and a socket wrench. So I don't suspect rotation assembly or engine seized.

Added (5). Also no CEL or codes.

Sounds like the engine suffered from hydrostatic lock and by the looks of that fuel, it appears to be water contaminated, and it screwed up your injectors, possibly causing the #4 injector to stick open and dump fuel into the cylinder causing the lockup. Since liquids don't compress, the starter is working against infinite resistance to turn the engine over which might explain the high impendences causing the battery leads to get hot. It seems to me that you will need to completely purge the fuel system of all contaminated fuel, and drop and inspect the tank for signs of rust or other contaminants, and you might also want to replace all four injectors as it seems they could all be compromised.