2008 Honda Accord. Fuel Gauge stuck on full and gas pump stops after a couple of cents of pumping?

2008 Honda Accord. Fuel Gauge stuck on full and gas pump stops after a couple of cents of pumping?

The gas tank is not stuck, it IS full?

Is not full. I have been driving for a week and the needle stayed at full. In order to fill up it took me like 20 minutes.

If the charcoal canister vent valve is not opening when you turn the motor off to fill the tank it may be the problem. If you top up the tank too much you can flood the charcoal canister and then the tank can't breathe even if the vent valve works.

Bang on the gas tank either with your fist real good or a rubber mallet. The float that works your gauge is attached to the fuel pump and it's stuck. I've never personally seen it happen but it might be stuck in the fill tube, you never know, but it's very unlikely that even if the float is somehow stuck in the fill tube it's stopping the gas pump at a gas station from pumping fuel into the tank around it. I'm thinking the reason the pump does that is just because the gun for the pump is a bit faulty and just not working right. I've found a lot of pumps anymore within the past few years have that issue where you can't leave the trigger pulled or locked on full throttle or they do that like the tank is full.

Have you tried gently pulling on the gas pump trigger when it stops? The gauge issue is definitely that the float is stuck but the pump issue you described is most likely that pump. Do you happen to use the same exact pump every time? Try a different gas station or a different pump at that station. I've experienced pumps doing this at a lot of gas stations and the solution is finding the sweet spot in trigger where it stays on - pumping gas. Most of the time I find that I can't use the lock on the gas pump gun's trigger to lock the trigger in place I end up having to stand there holding the trigger in a specific spot so it works otherwise it keeps kicking off. Sometimes that sweet spot is really difficult to find.

If banging on the tank doesn't free the float and cause the gauge to start working and it really bothers you that the gauge doesn't work the only option left is to take it to a mechanic and have them fix it. This might cost you between $200 and $500 in the US to have done because of the cost of the part and the labor involved.

- the tank has to be empty or at least very close to empty so do the mechanic a favor and don't take it in to have this done until it's very close to completely empty. This will save the mechanic a lot of time and effort which saves you money because you don't have to pay for the labor charges of the mechanic's time draining (siphoning) the tank empty.
- The tank has to be dropped off of the vehicle because the fuel pump is "hidden" on the top of it.
- Lines have to be removed.
- Fuel pump and seals have to be removed.
- Go ^that^ way to install the new one.

A fuel pump is a job no mechanic really likes doing, at least that none that I know of including myself fancy doing it, because there's just no way to avoid spilling at least a little bit of fuel that gets on you and you end up smelling like gas for a day or two because no matter how well you scrub or how many times you wash, especially unleaded gasoline, it lingers.

And you have those customers that schedule it to be done and even though you might have suggested they run the vehicle almost empty of gas when they hand the keys in dropping it off "I just filled the tank for you!".

Did you try another pump? Car could have two separate issues here. Fuel gauge sending unit is bad or gauge is bad. And the canister vent valve is stuck closed. Get the car towed to a shop.

Or, if it always happens at the same gas station, the flow from the pump might be too fast - and again, the gas backs up and shuts off the nozzle, Blum says. If the gas is especially… If the EVAC, designed for vapour, gets full of gasoline, you'll likely have bigger problems than just frustration at the pumps.