I have a 2005 Honda Accord, each tire has five lug nuts on it. My front left tire (drivers side) has one missing lug nut, I just went to get my tires rotated and they stripped one of the lug nuts and stud. They said they would reimburse me but I'm scheduled to take a road trip tomorrow early, around 330 miles one way. Will I be safe to drive it there without worry or should I not drive the car?
I hae a 4 cylinder honda accord and a 6 cylider honda accord. Are the transmissions interchangeable?
Is a 2005 Honda accord a good first car? It only has 116 kms
My key fob is dead, so I was just going to use my regular key to use the car but then I thought "what if it sets off the alarm?" I read up that it can mess with the alarm system or whatever if you're key fob is dead so if anyone has any insight on this please help. I don't want to start it if my alarm is going to go off, bc I know i won't be able to turn it off.
I'm weak and need to get stronger this week before an arm wrestling match I have scheduled soon. I'm trying anything I can do to get stronger, and I'm thinking I want to disable the power steering in my car so I can have to physically steer the car myself. How can I do this? I've got a 2017 Honda Accord.
I'm very confused by this. So the car is in a "no crank no start" situation right now. However, I've been troubleshooting it for the last week, in accordance to Helm's Service Manual I have.
Engine: Sleeved, Blueprinted and Balanced, Fully built (top and bottom) B16a (built by a performance shop here in Colorado to be "bulletproof" at 600whp. Currently runs at 370whp as a daily driver of sorts, but I do Winter the car.
Symptoms before wintering last September: developed a hesitation/misfire in acceleration, and would occasionally backfire on starting. I checked timing then, and it showed it was good.
So wintered the car as is. (put the battery on a battery tender). Then a week ago, I went to wake it from it's winter sleep, I checked the spark plugs and wires. Wires seemed burnt up some, and plugs appeared to be fouled. (Black sooty coating) I assumed that caused too much resistance, and made the plug leads burn up. And was the cause of issue. I replaced both, getting NGK BKR7eix Iridium plugs (heat 7 because turbo, resistor type). Sorta expected the car to start but it didn't.
Syptoms as of a week ago:
Started off with the starter cranking 2 or 3 times, then "halting" with a click.
Would do this repeatably, even in "flood clear" (gas pedal to the floor during starting)
Then eventually just started to do the normal starter click
Now ONLY cylinder #4 (closest to distributor) is flooding bigtime with fuel.
See picture. That's fuel that was evacuated from the cylinder.
Added (1). What I have tested so far:
Plugs and Wires again. - Plugs for the three cylinders not flooding show sign of combustion. Plug for flooding cylinder is clean and wet. (makes sense)
Battery tested. - Showed excellent. (the battery is only like a year old, so again made sense)
Removed Starter, tested on a machine. - Starter showed good as well. (this one surprised me)
Checked all grounds.
Voltage tested most things.
Resistance tested in accordance to Helms Manual. (results in next edit)
Added (2). Results of Voltage testing:
Battery Voltage at Starter
12v at power wire to Distributor with key to "on" position
12v at injector clip power wire
Results of Reistance testing:
Fuel Injectors are all within .2 ohms of eachother and are at ~300ohms. (this is within spec according to injector brand website for saturated injectors)
Tested the resistance of the sensor plug off dizzy as per manual for the TDC, Crank Angle, CYL signals. All were correct.
All related fuses and relays appear good.
Added (3). So what do you think is causing the cylinder 4 flooding? I obviously assume this is the reason for no start. But the injectors test out to be good. Since the engine doesn't run, I can't do the Stethoscope method to listen to them activating.
Another note, is the battery leads get very hot very fast. (battery to chassis ground, and batter to starter power lead) I assume this is extreme resistance due to the engine not turning.
Added (4). Think today while I wait for thoughts/answers, I'm going to pull the injectors out and see if any leak at fuel prime. (especially the one for cylinder 4). Really feel like it has to be stuck open or something, cause that is a ridiculous amount of fuel, and only one cylinder is flooding. Which is weird to me.
Also I forgot to note, I can turn the crank manually without the use of extra leverage. Just normal strength and a socket wrench. So I don't suspect rotation assembly or engine seized.
Added (5). Also no CEL or codes. 
I'm just curious if anyone that has an LX model has added fog lights to their car, if there's already a plug ready to connect, before I go ripping off my front bumper lol. My dealer is clueless and doesn't even know… Another words they just want me to bring it in so they can do it and charge me a fortune…
Where is fuse for dash lights on 2009 honda accord?
I own a 2012 Honda Accord which I bought new seven years ago. It is still in excellent condition and has not had to go to the mechanic except for routine maintenance. It has 75,500 miles on it. Should I trade it in now?
For example, a 2008 Honda Accord lists its "height" as 56-58." I'm wondering if that is including the tire height (the space from the underside of the car to the ground) or if it is just the body of the car (from top to bottom excluding the lift from the tires)?