How to reset car for smog test?
I bought a 96 Honda civic ex 5speed with expired tags from a few years back and I'm trying to get it register in my name so I went and try to smog test the car but the guy said I have to drive it for at least 100miles to see if the ecu reset in order to be able to smog test it. Done over 1000+ miles and still the ecu won't reset and I couldn t smog it. Any solution or suggestions? I been driving and go try and smog once a week for the past 3 months and every time it gets hook up to smog… The guy says it's not ready just keep driving…
Try driving somewhere to the mountains and push the car hard, that could help the system to kick in.
The guy who sold it knew it wouldn't pass the smog test in 100 or 1000 miles. Take it to a mechanic and get an estimate for what it will cost to fix it so it can pass.
Ask a dealer or look it up on how to in utube
How To Perform a Honda Civic Drive Cycle
The following is a Honda Civic OBDII Drive Cycle Pattern.
Cold Start: Begin from Cold Start, and ignition in OFF position for at least 1 hour. Ensure your Honda's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full and engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle Time: Run your Honda Civic's engine (do not drive) for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. During this period the ECU will be running the Oxygen Sensor Heater self-test, Air Injection System Passive Air test, EVAP Purge "No Flow" test, Misfire Detection.
Acceleration: Turn off the air conditioner and rear defroster and begin driving. As soon as possible apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. The ECU will now run self-tests on the Misfire Detection, Fuel Trim, and EVAP Purge Flow.
Hold Steady: Now hold your vehicle speed steady at 55mph for three minutes. During this time the Oxygen Sensor O2 response, Air Intrusive (AIS System), EGR Flow, Purge Valve, Misfire Detection, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Deceleration: During this step you want to slowly let off the accelerator pedal. Do not brake or shift your Honda in order to slow down. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. The ECU will once again self-test the EGR System, EVAP Purge System and Long Term Fuel Trims.
Accelerate: Go ahead and accelerate again at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph is reached. This will perform the same self tests as during the first acceleration step.
Hold Steady: Hold steady speed once again. This time at 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to running the self-tests as during the first HOLD STEADY step, the ECU will perform the catalyst monitor diagnostics. If the catalyst (Catalytic Converter) is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst, or in order to Complete the CAT Monitor.
Decelerate: This will perform the same diagnostics as in the first Deceleration. Remember not to press your Honda's brake or shift gears during deceleration.
Either your mechanic is BSing you or something is wrong -- resetting any ECU requires disconnecting your negative battery cable, let it sit for a few mins, and reconnect. Then drive about 100 miles and you should be good to get smog tested. If the mechanic stil says you need to drive more, try a different smog guy.
Connect a code reader to it and check the status. Perform a reset of the system. Leave the code reader connected when driving and step through to see which readiness monitor is not passing. Most of them will become ready in a short time. Basic components will be ready very quickly Catalyst will take a while evap will usually take a day.
Find a real shop that can diagnose and repair the car - meaning the monitors are all ready when you pick the car up.
Find a good mechanic if the readiness tests are not completing.
Besides driving the car several driving cycles and 1000 miles, the car could possibly have a malfunction that OBD2 code readers can tell you. Now, if you keep erasing the computer each time before you go to smog it, that is why it is never ready. Don't erase codes and don't disconnect the battery.
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