Vehicle emissions test after new battery install on a 2006 Honda Civic?

The last time I had my battery replaced the emissions data failed to register and after 3 failed and inconvenient attempts at the testing site, I ended up shelling out $130 at a repair shop to have the reset done after which the car passed the emissions test.

I'm in the same situation a few years later now, the battery was recently replaced and I need to get The emissions tested again.

I've read on some threads there's a fuse that can be pulled and replaced after 30 seconds, is that something I can do myself to ensure a successful emissions test without having to spend all that money at a repair shop?

I own a 2006 Honda civic. Any further information or advice would be appreciated.

The battery has no effect at all on emissions. If you change the spark plugs, oil and filter, plus the air filter it will improve emissions. Also if you use fully synthetic oil it will also help as this stuff resists burning. Make sure the car is up to full working temperature immediately prior to the test.

No. Your first experience does not really make sense. I don't understand why the repair shop charged you to do a reset. You must have had an emission problem that was registering in the computer that they had to fix.

Replacing the battery causes the computer to reset and therefore not be ready for the emission test. The only way to pass the test is to drive the car for several days (sometime longer) under a variety of conditions. After a reset your cars computer has to have time to monitor the emissions systems and register that they are all working correctly. Resetting the computer again would just start the entire process over. Instead you should drive it for several days, including some freeway speeds, and some long idle time, stops and starts, etc. Then you are ready for the test.

A cheapo code reader for $30 can do that. Whoever charged you $130 to reset a code is a crook.
The cheapo coder reader will give you the code that can tell you the problem.
If the CEL light is on don't waste your time going to emissions.
Leaving the battery or fuse disconnected for some time or the cheapo code reader to do a reset.
DON'T rush down to emissions right afterward as the engine computer will need to complete it's "drive cycle"
to become ready. This usually will be completed the following day. Once again the cheapo code reader will show ready. If you show up at emissions not ready you will have once again wasted you time.

If the car was not kept alive with an external power source while the battery was being changed then you'll lose the readiness monitors and the car will have to be driven a complete drive cycle to reset them. That's probably what you were charged for years ago.
If you start pulling fuses then you'll have to do the same thing. Have someone with a scan tool check to see if all the monitors have set. DO NOT RESET THE COMPUTER.
If the monitors have run and they are all set then just take it for testing as is. If the monitors have not run then you'll have to look up the specific drive cycle for your car, complete it and check the status again.
If done properly a drive cycle can usually be completed in about 20 minutes.

It has nothing to do with the battery. The battery is merely a part that is charged when the alternator is running. Go buy a code reader and see if your ecu is spitting any emissions codes. Sensors on a car do not last forever.

You read wrong. There are a series of automatic tests that the computer performs called readiness tests and they get erased whenever you disconnect a battery. You need to do a search about readiness tests to understand how to drive the car to make them complete faster. Other wise just drive the car for 100 miles and take your chances. Any auto parts store can hook up a code reader to see if the tests are completed yet. Just don't have them erase anything.

When you disconnect the battery it wipes out the readiness monitors and the same goes for clearing any DTCs. It takes a few days of normal driving or a specific drive cycle for all the monitors to complete.

My guess is that you were robbed of $130 on that first event. For less than that, you can buy an OBDII tester. With that tester, you can clear any codes and reset the CEL light provided there are no permanent failures.

It is also possible your failed emissions because of the readiness tests weren't completed after the battery was replaced. Most states allow 1 or 2 readiness monitor failures. Google "OBDII readiness monitor" for a better explanation.

I've heard of people pulling fuses and even disconnecting the battery. In my opinion, not a reliable solution because of the readiness monitors. An OBDII reader won't clear readiness monitors, just DTCs if any are stored.

Research your vehicle and also look up "Drive Cycle". This helps to set the readiness monitors when you complete the drive cycle.