Cracked top of Honda engine block. Looks repaired but how long will this last?

Bought a used car 1 year ago. It runs fine and no problems. Took the car it for an oil change and mechanic noticed a leak. He took off the oil pan and found this.
Oh the joys of buying a used car…
Looks repaired but how long will this last? Honda quoted me $6000 to repair it…

Can I keep running the car like this?

Added (1). Thanks Dan!
This is a photo taken from the top. Timing chain to the right Cracked top of Honda engine block. Looks repaired but how long will this last

Hard to tell what we're looking at. Is this under the engine or on top. If it's under that's the bottom of the block and depending on the crack you may need a new engine but you can get a used one installed from a scrap yard for 1/2 of what they told you.
If it's on top that's the cylinder head and there's probably a way to fix it by cleaning it thoroughly and applying a sealer. Something like Permatex Ultra Black would work.
Update: Clean the area with brake clean and use the Permatex to coat the area before reinstalling the valve cover.
- Again, the picture isn't clear but that sure looks like the bottom of the engine. I think I can see main and rod bearing caps.

Hmm… I'd say you are okay at this time. With the crack being at the bottom of the engine, no critical spots are going to be compromised. You will need to be vigilant with the crack. It could eventually break a piece off the block and cause a nasty oil leak down there. Did they overtighten that bolt for that hole? Is that an aluminum block? Needless to say: have the mechanic drown the area in sealant when he puts the pan back on. I'd keep the bolt out of that hole also.

And just keep watching it.

Yeah - some butcher used the wrong sized bolt or over=tightened. Don't think it's a stressed area… No water or oil passages nearby - I'd button-it-up (carefully with a lot of sealer) and forget about it.

99.9% of all cars live long lives and go the the boneyard without ever having the oil pan removed… So yours is off twice (at least): original factory defect… Or why was it apart before?

For that kind of money, I would keep driving. Meanwhile save up money to buy a new vehicle.

$6000 will buy many, many quarts of oil.

I'd clean the cracks up real good with brake cleaner spray and then use compressed air to blow dry the area. Then apply JB Weld Epoxy to the cracks and the bolt hole using a piece of plastic to pack it into the cracks and hole. Once hardened use a file to level the JB Weld with the surface. Remount the pan and drill and tap a new hold 1/2" from the hole you filled with the JB Weld.

That's not the "top" of the engine block. It's the "bottom" of the engine block. I can see the crankshaft and a connecting rod.

Stop drill that crack, then do what the other folks said.

Epoxy metal filler is your friend. The repair should hold and if the only issue is a few oil drips, just don't park on your mamas new driveway. As for $6k. A good used engine from a wrecker is a better option than whatever you were quoted for but this kind of repair is what the epoxy metal fillers were made for. If it bothers you, maybe you can have it TIG welded but I would just go epoxy and live with any oil weepage.

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