95 honda Accord changed out ignition coil but still won't start?

95 honda Accord changed out ignition coil but still won't start?

Just sell it and buy anything but a Honda, they are unreliable and will cause you problems in the future

I'm with John. Why not pick something more expensive like the computer.

Throw more money at it of figure out the real problem.

Your description is poor: No spark is the only problem the car has? Was the CEL on before the engine quit running? (Check Engine Light). Engine run or not: What's the code? What have you tested or check? Question like yours will have "Funny" answers most of the time and I do not blame the previous answers.

Have you checked the fuses?: What about the ignition switch and the main relay?
Under dash fuse/relay box: Fuse #2(15A), #9 (7.5A)
Under hood fuse/ relay box: Fuse # 33 (15A), # 39 (7.5A)

Now back to the car problem for won't start: Since you've not specified the engine is an I-4 (2.2L) or V6 (2.7L) so I'll pick the most popular engine for the Accord during the year (86%): The 2.2L.

So you replaced the Ignition coil. Why? Have you checked the coil to see if there's B+ (12 Vlts) present? Have you checked the Igniter? (Ignition Control Module or ICM). This is how the ignition system produce spark:

B+ is fed first to the Ignition coil (when you turn the key to ON and then Crank), and from the Coil to the Igniter (ICM) inside of the Distributor; The distributor shaft starts to turn (as the engine cranks and starts) which induces the Position Sensors to start producing and sending their Position Signals to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module/ or Engine Computer).

Upon receiving these position signals, the PCM sends a Triggering Signal to pulse the Igniter.
The Igniter upon receiving this Triggering Signal in turn sends a Switching Signal to the Ignition coil.
The ignition coil, upon receiving this Switching Signal, starts to spark away!

The Switching Signal is just the 'switching' On and Off of the primary current flowing thru' the Coil by interrupting its path to ground. Some people refers "The primary" current is just the name for the 12 Volts (B+) that the ignition coil receives and then producing "Secondary" (Spark) current to the spark plugs through the distributor and Rotor.

The PCM controls the ICM at Start Up and at all engine speeds after Start Up, unlike other majority of distributor type/ ignition systems where the ICM freelances at start up.

So it's too much for it. Let me ask you a few questions:

1- Have you check to see if the timing belt is intact and all of the timing marks on the Camshaft and Crank shaft sprockets matched up or line up?

2- How do you check for spark? At the distributor, at the spark plugs? Etc. What did you use to check for spark?: A spark plug? It should not be used: the ignition coil be tested with the high tension wire (spark plug wire) that connects it to the distributor cap to be off of the distributor cap. It's important that the test be done with a spark tester attached to this high tension wire. The car can't/should not be cranked without the ignition coil's high tension wire being grounded by a spark tester

3- Do you have a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM)?

Watch this simple video:

That for a start. Hope I've given to you enough ideas to start recheck everything. If you think that you've got a wiring problem then give me the trim code like EX, DX etc. 2.2 or 2.7L? I'll send the needed wiring diagrams for the car (OEM wiring diagrams. E mail if you need more help. HTH

I swapped out engines on my 93 Honda Accord with a 92 honda accord but my car only had 4 spark plug wires and the new engine has 5