Motorcycle runs horrible?

Hi! I have a 84' Honda vf700s. I put it away for winter 2 months ago, but Christmas down here in boston it was 67 degrees! I had to take it out. Its always run good, but that day it died. Before it died its ran horrible, it wouldnt accelerate past 5K, and felt like it was starving for fuel, so i thought. I brought it home and started digging into the carbs. I got half way into my project when i decided to take my 3 month old plugs out, and they were horrible. I replaced them today and the bike starts but runs horrible, and only with the choke on, not only that but now i have a coolant leak! ( completly unrelated just a bad day for the v-four ). I'm left to only go back and take out those carbs, but before that i think i may drain out the gas and put some new feul in there just in case. Anyone wana try and life a broken soul with some tips of things i can try?

The carbs likely just need to be rebuilt, blown out good then synced properly… When you rebuild i would replace all the pilot jets…

It's an old bike. In addition to the carb rebuild, you might wanna get a shop manual, Haynes, Clymer or Honda, and do the "major service" stuff--typically adjusting the valves, changing all of the fluids, pulling the tank and seat, un ty-wrapping the wiring harness and checking for problems, blowing out all of the electrical connectors, replacing the battery cables and spark plug wires and spark plug caps, cleaning all of the grounds, replacing the fuel lines, inspecting the alternator and its brushes, rebuilding the starter, inspecting the tank for rust, rebuilding the petcocks, lubricating the swing-arm, replacing all leaking gaskets, torquing everything, and like that. Let me introduce you to the concept of preventative maintenance: the idea is to fix things BEFORE they fail. Right now you are pursuing the head-in-the-sand approach. Totally your choice, dude.

Probably a good idea to check the air-filters, mice love to over-winter themselves.

If it ran fine when you put it away, I'd bet new gas and a float bowl cleaning would do it.

Yes on the new fuel - flush out your tank if possible. While you have the fuel drained, remove the petcock and clean the screen - you may need a new gasket if you do this.

Flush out your fuel lines or just replace them - it's probably time. Replace any fuel filters you may have.

Then take your carbs out again. You need to really clean them and inspect all of the parts. Replace anything that is worn, then do a good job of setting them up again. Make sure all of the jets are the same -- someone might have replaced something in the past. Make sure the needles are in the same position. Make sure the floats are adjusted properly. Clean all of the orifices completely, pay special attention to the choke circuits. Use the proper cleaners and tools. Check the jets to make sure someone hasn't damaged them or drilled them out. Replace if necessary. Do one carb at a time, don't mix up the parts.

Then fix the coolant leak

Normal over winter and get back on road in spring in Wisconsin is drain old gasoline, drain carb bowls if practical, fresh non ethanol premium with double dose of Seafoam or Chrevron, pull plugs and a tablespoon of engine oil in each cylinder, turn engine over 4 times before putting cleaned or new plugs back in before starting. Get about 1/2 of sitting 2 years back on road without major carb cleaning- run 100 miles and do the oil change, check the aircleaner and chains again.

Replace the air filter?

Are the carbs CV's? If so check diaphrams for pinholes or worse. Also check carbs for wear-wobbly slides leaking butterfly pivots will upset things. Badly!