How should I go about fixing my 2010 Honda Accord? (More details below)?

I owe $4,924 on a 2010 Accord worth $4,000 on KBB (w/ "Good" rating and 123,000 miles). There are minor cosmetic damages from a hit and run case that was never settled. My insurance has a $500 deductible to fix them. I want to trade it in for a new car.

Aside from cosmetics, the car burns oil like nothing I've ever seen before; I have to top it off every 2,200 miles. And from what I've read, '08-12 Accords have that problem. I've spent the past two and a half years doing all I can to fix the issue with no positive results.

Additionally, the front axel's cracked and the timing belt's dry. All these things have been around since I purchased the car from a private seller in April 2016. The symptoms just didn't show up till it was too late.

I couldn't care less about the cosmetics of the car. I only bring it up because I don't know whether it would worth having my insurance pay for it (+ my deductible), the dealer pay for it (along with the mechanical issues), or I bring it into a shop myself to avoid having an accident report on the vehicle.

And lastly, my bank is the one who gave me the loan for the car, and they treat me pretty well. So having a dealership deduct the car's value from what I owe, paying off my existing loan and taxing the difference on to a loan for a new car is something I'm prepared to do.

Not gonna be worth a lot even after fixing the damages.

Is it worth $4k with all the problems it has? If so, your best bet is to sell it at that price from a private sale or KBB, car dealers would pay much less for it.

Deductible is not worth it. If you can't do KBB or private sale your best bet is to go to the dealer and sell it to them.

If you really want to research the cost of fixing all the problems and if its under 30% of the value of the car then do it, make sure the shop is trustworthy.

What you want to do is fix a "beater" for the next person to get half of what you'll get back on repairing it trade in. Just trade it in and bit the bullet

I'd sell it as is privately or trade it in the way it sits and be done with it before it develops any more maintenance needs or repairs needed.
By the way good running motors need their oil level checked and topped up every 1,000 miles.

Simply; YOU don't. You have unrealistic expectations of a vehicle. For those people they spend time making money instead of learning how to repair stuff they break. You are that person.

You trade it in or sell privately and bear the brunt of the loss. You may get $3500 for it as the buyer is not as dumb as a sack of wet rocks.

They are that smart when it comes to spending "their money"
Maybe you will be real unlucky and NOBODY wants to look at it.

So you are stuck with trading it in at a dealership and they may only give you $3000. They NEVER LOSE MONEY "Buying or Selling"

The front axle boot crack. Rubber does that over time.
Timing belts are suppose to be dry. So you are talking about the "V" belt which drives the alternator and water pump. The car has a timing chain which is internal so you can't see it and it always in oil.

So, it seems you are confused with how dealerships work, They offer you a low figure what they are willing to pay for it (lets say it is $3000) They pay you cash and they get the title to the car. You got $3000 in your hand. You still have a $5000 loan you have to pay off--so all the money goes to paying that loan and you still owe $2000 on the loan.
. No where do you have money for another car. You still owe on that loan, so the chances of getting another load is slim, because you have not proven you can pay off the previous loan… They MAY GIVE YOU ANOTHER LOAN… Depends on your job and credit rating. If your job is government related, then you got no money coming in right now… So you are HOOPED. You are going to be either living with this car for awhile longer and making payments for the loan and the engine repairs until you are better off financially.

(which may be never)

also FIND a different mechanic that can keep your car running. If you have had 2 1/2years with no stabilizing results, then the dudes you are seeing don't know ANYTHING.

40+ yr mechanic.

You are dreaming if you think a dealer is going to accept your worthless car in trade, pay off your loan, and add your negative equity onto a new loan for a new car. Not going to happen.

Be prepared to tack on at least $4,000. You'll be lucky if the dealer gives you $1,000 for it. If they say they are giving you more, they are making it back in a smaller discount on what you're buying than you could get if you bought it with no trade. The dealership will send your car straight to auction and it might not even bring $500 with that many problems.