After full service in shop car still stalls?
Had honda serviced but it still stalls, sadly it never stalls when they test drive it. Only does it with me. Everything was sercived filters spark plugs everything. No codes on computer popping up either. What could this stalling be then?
It is from the use of BAD OIL CHOICES! HERE's WHY! BAD CHEAP wax based oils, like even VALVOLINE turn BACK into the TAR and SLUDGE it was REDUCED from! Eventually it will STICK ENGINE SENSOR together and RIGHT NOW you have a CLOGGED UP IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE and THROTTLE BODY full of VARNISH that STOPS the EXTRA AIR needed to keep the engine running at stop lights! BTW< you do NOT have a "GAS" pedal anymore on ANY car! Fuel is METERED by injection, and YOU ADD THE AIR with your FOOT! THis opens the THROTTLE BODY allowing AIR into the engines THE IDLE AR CONTROL VALVE dds MORE air as required to keep the O2 sensors in TUNE and the CONVERTER running a the PROPER TEMPERATURES! A CLOGGED UP IAD is the reason that most people REPLACE THEIR CONVERTERS! I HAVE NEVER REPlACED ON on ANY car I have owned EVER! I KNOW to keep the IAC clean and to use IRIDIUM PLUGS to get that EXTRA POWER from each piston stroke! POWER WASN engine with GUNK ORANGE to keep your WIRING HARNESS free of ROAD SALT and LEAKING FLUIDS! A CLEAN engine runs its VERY BEST as HEAT will dissipate EVENLY! USE AMSOIL POWER FOAM to clean your THROTTLE BODY and IAC valve! Mos ANY OIL CHANGE CENTER can do this for you for less than $30 and closer to TWENTY BUCKS! A CLEAN IAD is VITAL for metering the AIR properly! IT IS ALWAYS the AIR site of injection that gets DIRTY and it MUST be cleaned MANUALLY< BY HAND! Send ME the $30! I NEED IT! Rgmuske@ WATERFORD< MICHIGAN< 1555 Williams Lake Road! BYE NOW!
Is it automatic or manual transmission? If everything is working correctly, it never stalls for the mechanics, then I suspect a manual transmission and you are letting the clutch plate engage when the rpms are too low.
If it is an automatic, then you may have too much electrical current drain for the alternator. Shut off all your electrical except for the lights and see if it still stalls. If it doesn't, then turn on items until the vehicle stalls. That is the point at which you need to upgrade the alternator and possibly battery in order to meet your current requirements.
The Ignition distributor and the Ignition switch is a common issue that will cause stalling on the 98' Honda CRV 2.0L engine.
Also, did you tell the dealership that you had a stalling issue when you took it in for maintenance?
Also you did not mention WHEN the engine stalls…
1. Engine stalls intermittently
2. Engine stalls at stops
3. Engine stalls when cold
4. Engine stalls when trying to start it
Please give as much information as possible if you would like an accurate answer.
It seems to me that your mechanics are probably not getting it fully warmed up when they test drive it. This is common and understandable since time is money and that have other people's cars to repair. Engines have different idle characteristics at different temperature levels. There's such a thing as a "cold idle injector."
If you possibly can, drop by their shop after you have been driving around for a while, flag them down and ask them to have a quick look so they can witness it stall.
If no one with the skill to diagnose this properly witnesses it malfunctioning any diagnosis is a guess at best. Don't go replacing parts based on guesswork.
Ask them to check and, if necessary, test the coil packs. That's a very common cause of the fault you describe and it can be horribly intermittent and difficult to diagnose.
Failing coil packs often show clearly visible signs of overheating, so if on removal there's obvious blackening or other heat discolouration then it's a fair indicator that coil pack needs replacing. They're not cheap, but good used ones can be had much more cheaply. Making sure the spark plugs are correctly gapped helps to prevent future coil pack failure. If the gap erodes to become too large then the coil packs have to work much harder and will overheat.
No codes makes it sound like it is not something with the engine but more like a bad connection somewhere or a bad relay that gives up. The best I can offer is to setup a test light that will monitor the current to the fuel injectors and the ignition system to see which one is causing the stall.
Automatic honda crv 1998
Maybe a weak battery that gets charged by the time you reach the shop.
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