How to check if there's a bad connection for my speedometer in my 1995 Honda civic ex?
How can I check if there's a bad connection for my speedometer in my 1995 Honda civic ex?
Added (1). my speedometer and odometer isn't working.
however I do not have a check engine light on.
I think it's either the speed sensor or a bad connection.
how can I check the connection?
do I pull the speedometer out?
Most of the time: It's the VSS. Do not guess or think: Check the signal and the circuit out.
How the VSS circuit works:
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied from fuse 24 (fuse 12 without SRS) through the BLK/YEL wire to the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). The sensor is grounded by the BLK wire to G101. The speedometer and other control units in the circuit supply about 5 volts to the YEL/WHT wire. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) intermittently grounds the YEL/WHT wire which generates a pulsed signal in it. The number of pulses per minute increases/decreases with the speed of the car.
How the speedometer/gauge circuit works:
When the ignition switch is in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 15 to the gauges in the gauge assembly.
The odometer and speedometer drive circuits receive pulses from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input pulses are measured and displayed by the speedometer, odometer and tripmeter.
Ah, the infamous bad Civic speedometer. 99% of the time, it's the control circuit board on the back of the speedometer gauge itself. They are well-known for bad solder joints that fail over time. The VSS almost never fails, and if it did, the CEL would be on. In EVERY case like this I've seen, it was the circuit board. Of course, it "could" be the VSS, but diagnose the problem first instead of guessing and wasting time and money firing the "parts cannon" at the car.
To get to the control board, remove the two screws out of the upper intrument cluster bezel, then the four screws holding the entire cluster in. Gently pull the cluster outward and unplug all three harness connectors. The board is attached by four standoffs to the back of the gauge. The part is about $110 if it's still available from Honda.
Get an ohm meeter at sears or harbor freight for like 10-20 bucks and put one lead on the wire and the other on the ground… If you get a reading its prolly good
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