2004 Honda CRV engine problems

Ok so it started as a misfire under load (going up hills) but now it ticks what sounds to be every time the engine makes a rotation doesn't madder if its at idle or at 4 grand its tickin away. It has no power at all and i have to floor it at points to even keep speed but when i do that it makes a loud knock every other rotation it seems like metal smacking metal type of noise. Its giving codes for misfire on cylanders 1, 2, and 3. P0301. P0302. P0303 and a random misfire code. P0300. Oil is good clean and full and the headgasket was replaced 2 years ago all coils a year ago and one very recently. Mind you there's no check engine light on. It blinks when it really gets rough but thats all it doesn't stay on. I counted 3 to 5 blinks one time and 28 to 30 blinks another i can't find anything on the blinking besides a knock sensor going off. But please help this is killing me. What is the issue here? I'm about to buy a new engine if i don't have to already.

If your getting misfire codes, odds are you have burnt valve(s) been there done that. Do a compression test first. If that comes back acceptable, do a valve adjustment. The exhaust valves get very very tight (valve seats get recessed into the head) and if left that way too long it will burn up the valve, causing very rough idle and eventually misfire codes. From my experiences with it, if your getting misfire codes its probably too late. But doesn't hurt to test it and do a valve adjust.

It may not be the cause as I remembered the 2004 K24 engine uses roller rocker arms and does NOT have a problem with cylinder heads (or valve adjustments) like the first Generation (1997 - 2001) CR-V.

The CEL is not on indicates that the defect(s) is likely related to the mechanical side instead of electrical/ electronic defect(s). Make sure the CEL light lit up for 5 seconds or so on the dash when you turn the ignition key one then goes out to be sure the bulb is good.

I would also start by doing a compression test and cylinder leak down test, so you can be sure everything mechanical is in proper working order, some Honda have a problem with blowing head gaskets and causing misfire codes, does the Cr-v loosing coolant? The cylinder fills up with coolant due to an intake gasket leaked, cracked head or cracked engine block and causes a misfire. Is the car has overheated problem?

Check and see if all of the injectors receiving the signal from the PCM? Check it by using a "Noid" light. Have you checked the fuel pressure and do a fuel pressure leak down test? I have also seen in the past, one defected ignition coil can caused all misfire codes due to the PCM shut down to protect the engine and the emission system. The CR-V is not equipped with an EGR valve so don't look for one. How the spark plugs look like? Could the cause is as simple as a weak fuel pump or restricted fuel filter? Or contaminated fuel?

Do those basic tests first. Carbon build up on the top end of the engine can cause the misfire, timing is off can do the same thing besides loosing power. I have given to you enough advice for a start in diagnose the misfire engine. There are few more things. E mail me if you need help on how to do the tests or get someone who know how to test. Do not guess and the engine replacement is the last resort if it damaged or worn out.

Edit: More question(s) or need help with the basic tests?: E mail me. HTH

All good answers. Just to add, when the Check Engine light is blinking, it means it is currently misfiring, it is highly recommended to shut off the engine to prevent more damage as instructed on the manual

The Check Engine light will remain on, if the misfiring occurs a certain number of times, or a certain percent of a time. At early stage of misfire, the CEL will only blink when it is occurring, it will remain on when misfiring gets severe.

You are most likely have a Knock problem, the piston is hitting the valves due to timing issues.

I'd say timing failure and possible valve train failure. Remove the timing cover and make sure cam timing is correct in relation to crank. If it's not correct, you may have valve damage. Set the timing to its correct position and do a compression test. If compression is low, it's almost definitely broken/bent valve. If you really want to find out why compression is low, put that cylinder to TDC (its top-most position) and inject air into the spark plug hole. If air comes out the exhaust, it's an exhaust valve. If it comes out the intake, it's an intake valve.