I have a 1998 Honda CRV with 240 K miles. Needs $1200 of repair to pass inspection. Should i fix or buy a newer used Honda civic? Mike?
I'm the original owner and have done a good job with oil changes etc. However, it needs 2 front control arms with ball joints and rear struts to pass inspection. I've also gone past my mileage on a second timing belt (first one done at 90K miles). Car body exterior and interior is in pretty good shape. Inside looks brand new. But repair cost at 1200 + timing belt ~500 =~1700 in repars. Is it time for a newer used auto.
Yes. Get a different car. 240k is a lot of mileage, even for a Honda.
Go new… I replaced my CRV after about 220 with a new CRV. So many new features. Why a Civic? Stick with the CRV. Love the CVT transmission.
Friend it's simply not good economics to put that kind of money into a vehicle that isn't even worth that in the first place. Sell that vehicle and get out from underneath it and get yourself a new vehicle the payment on a new vehicle is probably going to be less than what you're paying now to maintain your old one
I'm a car dealer, selling cars is how I maintain myself. I believe that buying new-ish cars is a poor investment, of course I never tell my customers that, you can imagine why. But my point is, when you buy a car, it begins losing value. A little every day, a little every mile, but the value will diminish. The loss of value is greater when the car is newer and with fewer miles, but when the car is older, with more miles, the loss begins to level off. If all you need is a commuter car, and you are certain that the rest of the car is in excellent shape (good engine, good transmission, frame isn't rusted out), then I would consider repairing the CRV and avoid purchasing another car. Generally, if you have to purchase another car, and you are not a licensed car dealer and do not have access to an auto auction, expect to pay around $4k, give or take, for a decent commuter car. That would be the price of the car + taxes + title + registration + repairs if needed + researching the car PRE-PURCHASE. I can't stress that enough, if you intend to buy another car, do a pre-purchase inspection, and do it BEFORE the purchase, not after. Do the CarFax, or some other NMVTIS service such as AutoCheck. Check the odometer. I've seen cars with 150k miles on the dash, but CarFax said that last year it had 280k. Go for a long test drive in various conditons. City driving, stop and go, highway, heavy acceleration. Plan for a 2 hour test drive, if the owner protests, offer to compensate him for the gas. If all good, then take to a mechanic for the final verdict, and have him do a pre-purchase inspection. If all good, then buy the car. Whatever you do, don't buy a car, then take it to a mechanic. I've seen that all too often and then when something is wrong, they whine because the car is AS-IS. The only time you don't have to worry about AS-IS, is when the car is brand new. Even Certified Pre-Owned cars are not covered by Lemon law, because lemon law only covers new cars (in most states). A used car with a warranty is still not covered by Lemon Law, but there's some recourse under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, but it's more difficult than a Lemon Law that compels the manufacturer to buy it back. My point is, if you're buying used, make sure, PRE-PURCHASE, that this is what you want. Otherwise, you might be buying somebody else's headache.
This is the excuse you've been waiting for if that's what you're asking.
But paying that much to keep a good car on the road is a wager that just might be worth it, if your gut says it won't need anything else for a while.
1700 is about 5 car payments and just for gigglesANDshits wouldn't it be cool to get it to 300+K miles. Those repairs are purely maintenance items. Almost like saying my car need tires should I dump it… Of course all this hinges on your socioeconomic condition. But the insurance rates are low now as you need only liability, taxes if any should be minimal - etc.
How much would the vehicle sell for AS IS to someone that knows its condition?
How much would it sell for after the repair?
Is the difference more or less than the repair cost?
KBB says it wouldn't be worth more the $3,000 in EXCELLENT condition, and yours isn't anywhere close to excellent.
I'd never stick $1200 into a car that old with that high mileage.
- I bought a car from Tony Honda of Hawaii and I found out this year that it won't pass inspection when I took it in? The Rims stick out past the wheel well and and that wouldn t allow a pass. So it doesn't have any recon stickers and somehow they got it to pass. What can I do, do I need to speak to legal on the navy base. Can they take this car back? They never told me about this tuff and they don't exactly have paper work for it either. Somehow they made it pass the first time
- Won't start not sure if water pump needs replacing or needs new engine? 2004 Honda civic DX 1.7L engine 155k? My car won't start i had to press the gas really hard to get it going before but now it started smoking(white) from under the hood and smelling burnt every time we try and start it up. I saw leaking under the car. Probably the coolant because its blue. Not sure if a new water pump and timing belt would do the job and or if we need to swap the entire engine. Before this I noticed that the engine would get hot or shut off whenever we stopped moving and finally this happened.
- Should I buy a 2008 honda civic ex-l that has 100000 miles or a honda civic lx that has 82k miles? The honda civic ex-l has only one owner and the honda civic lx is from a dealer. They're fairly the same price
- How am I going to pass inspection? I have a 1997 honda civic ex and the car used to be a automatic but the previous owner converted it to a manual. My problem is that the check engine light is on… My mechanic told me it's on because the car still has a automatic ECU? What can I do! Btw it's my first car and I ****** up