2005 Honda Accord Ex coupe - power windows not working?

I have an 05 Honda Accord that is experiencing issues with its power windows. It started withthe drivers side motor going out, which I replaced about a month ago. A few weeks a go the window on the drivers side stopped working completely, I took it back to the guy that replaced the motor and he said I needed a new master switch - however the switch still controlled the passengers side perfectly. I was going to replace the switch when I saved up, but this morning my passengers side window wouldn't respond on the master switch, so I leaned over to try the switch on the actual passenger door and NOTHING! I also hear a clicking noise coming from the window/door, by itself… I'm not pressing any buttons. Does anyone have any idea what's going on?

First off, check all of the five fuses in the under dash fuse/relay box since you have said: Neither windows is working: Fuse 21, 24, 25, 26 and 27. It's not an Accord hybrid is it? The wiring would be different.

I've included a link from Auto Zone which contain all wiring diagrams for the car that you might need. You'll have to find out which two diagrams are for the window system, Hybrid or not: 2001-2006
http://www.autozone.com/...3f8037524c

The power window Master switch besides the Multiflex unit (Window Control Unit) could be at fault. First off, check the "Window lock" button on the Master switch to see if it has been activate. If it's on, the passenger side will not work (Down position is "On")

The Master switch as I have seen from time to time on 2005 Accord has water in it due to a defected of the door weather strip thus corrosion make the switch quit working. Remove the switch, tilt it over and see if you have water running out, a common defect or open it up and see if there's any corrosion/ water mark. Sedan or Coupe. While you have the switch out, take a closer look at the contact terminals and see if there's burnt marks or damaged terminals. Sometimes loose connector will do the same thing that make the windows quit.

The Master switch is seldom fail unless it has water condensation due to the window weather strip has failed or defect in its connections or worn out due to age cause it's the one has been in operation most of the time.

If the fuses checked out good then the quickest way to check is to remove the door inner panel and apply battery voltage and ground directly to the two wires on the window motor(s) then reverse the connections to make the window goes up or down, of course with the connector disconnect from the motor. If each of the window goes up and down good then the problems are in the switch or in the wiring.

If the problem is the motor then both motor and regulator come as a whole assembly as it's cable driven.

Be sure to check the wiring harness between the door and the door jam for each door as the door has been open/close so many times, the "flexible" movement twisting/turning make the wire(s) broke off inside of the protector loom/boot.

Beyond this testing point, you'll need a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), the right window wiring diagrams, how the system work and a scanner, which make life of a technician a lot easier. I did not go beyond this point because it would be pointless if you do not have the tools, wiring diagram or know how the system work. It would be wasting your time.

The normal failures are: The switches, relay, the motor, the window regulator, the breakage of the wires. Blown fuse(s), most of the time indicate the motor(s), short in wiring. Replacing the fuse is just treating the symptom, not the cause. You've just temporarily restore the power and the fuse will blow again.

E mail if you have more question as I won't have the time to go back to the question to check for your update information. HTH

Edit: What has been replace other than the driver side window motor? Was the vehicle involved in an accident and used window switch(es) was use? Anything else you want to share? Do you feel at ease with my explanation? Sorry if I've insulted your "Mechanically inclined".